Meeting Minutes

The Custodians Fencing Club.

Technical and coaching

To repair weapons go to the Armoury @Leon Paul

The Foil and the other 2 weapons

Epee and Sabre

These are the main Guards we will use.

Shown for both Left and Right handed fencers

Beginners Guide to equipment

( see bottom of page for pictures)

The Plastron

As you can see not much to look at, but a vital piece of protective equipment that is a legal requirement under BFA regulations. They come in different grades, and therefore different prices. The starting one is adequate for a beginner.

The Weapons.

The foil is the weapon we first start with. As you can see it is a long slender weapon. It is not heavy, and it is not sharp. The handle is slightly shaped and is different for a left handed or right handed person. The coach will make sure you have the correct one. There are also some very funny shaped handles called pistol grip or orthopaedic grips. Don’t worry about these at the moment. See below (About the weapons).

The Masks.

The masks come in different sizes and so we will find one that fits. They may appear a little cumbersome at first, but you soon get used to them. They just slip on over your head, and an elasticated back hold them in place.

The Jackets.

The jackets are unisex and come in different sizes. They fit either left or right handed fencers and have a back zip. Fencers that buy their own tend to buy a front zip jacket which will have a zip on the right or left hand side depending on which hand they hold their weapon.

About the Weapons.

The Foil.

This is the weapon you normally start to learn fencing with; but do not be fooled into thinking this is a beginners weapon. This is the ultimate Fencing weapon. It is a fast light thrusting weapon, where you try to hit your opponet on the body. Arms, legs and head are all off target.

The Epee

A larger heavier and slower weapon than the foil, but is still used in the same thrusting manner, trying to hit your opponet with the weapons point. A larger target area to hit and defend as there are no off targets. Arms, legs, head and body are all valid targets.

The Sabre

With this weapon the blade can also be used with a cutting / slashing action as well as with the point. The target area is from the top of the hips upwards.

MAINTENANCE OF FOILS.

Here are a few guidelines that I hope you may find useful for both non-electric and electric weapons. The foils by their very nature are quite robust, but the life of a blade can be greatly extended by careful and regular maintenance.

The biggest enemy you will face off the piste is RUST, especially when that blade is idle for a few weeks. Get into the habit of wiping the blade down with a soft cloth before and after each fight or practise session. In fact, do it when you use it.

Invest in some lubricating oil such as WD 40. Spray some oil onto the blade the day you are going to use it, and again when you are going to put it away.

Make a scabbard for your blade. Tubes made from cardboard, plastic electric conduit, and even hosepipe will protect the blade. This will also add strength to your kit bag, and protect your white fencing gear from grease and rust marks.

TOP TIP. Cut the end off an old tie to line the tube to really guard against rust. The Anglo Saxons used fleece for this purpose, as the natural lanoline in the fleece kept rust at bay. The modern day combination of WD 40 and a tie will act in the same manner.

Keep the handling of the blade to a minimum. Sweat causes rusting to occur very fast. Look at club blades and you will find rusty fingerprints of the guilty fencers.

When storing your blade during long periods of inactivity, keep them in a warm dry place. Apply an extra coating of oil or even furniture wax, BUT DO NOT WIPE IT OFF.

Rust on the blade can be dealt with in a number of ways, using either chemical, manual and a combination of both. I would always recommend using a coating of oil and lightly abrade with a foam-sanding block. The same result can be achieved with fine emery or glass paper, or even a scouring pad, BUT NEVER USE A FILE.

(Extra care must be taken when cleaning electric weapons. The top surface should be avoided as you run a real risk of breaking the connecting wire and ruining the whole blade).

ELECTRIC WEAPONS. Will require more maintenance just through normal use. You should posses as a minimum requirement, electrical insulating tape, scissors, jewellers point screwdriver, small screwdriver, mini pliers, and a lighter. Spare parts should include, tips, springs, and grub screws.

Below are a couple of pictures that show how you should tape up your electric weapons, using either cloth tape or a good quality electrical insulation tape. It is essential you do this to prevent white lights being registered as a non valid hit, due to a short circuit being formed. To start you should have a 10 – 15cm strip of tape laid vertically down the blade, starting just over the bottom of the barrel. This should then be wrapped around the blade. If you try and twist tape round and down the blade, too much tape is used and will cause the point to wobble more making hits difficult to make. Finally, a similar size strip should be twisted round the barrel. This should start at the rim of the barrel, so the tip point still depresses freely. You should check this regularly, and make any repairs prior to the start of fencing.

Being the local Custodians of the Art Of Fencing, the Custodians Fencing Club was Born.